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Writer's pictureRobert E.L. Walters

City of the Week: Caguas the Heart and Center of Puerto Rico

Paseo José Gautier Benítez in downtown Caguas, Puerto Rico

The Turabo Valley is the largest in Puerto Rico. Closed in by the Cayey Mountains and bordered by the Rio Grande de Loiza on the east, the Turabo has the distinction of being a relatively flat oblong plain-- a rarity in Puerto Rico. It also has the distinction of hosting a city that is anything but flat-- The bustling town of Caguas.


Founded on New Year's Day in 1775 as San Sebastián del Piñal de Caguax, the city was named for Caguax a local Taíno chief and an early convert to Christianity. Construction beginning in 1775 was completed in 1779 and in 1894 Caguas became a city.


Much of the architecture in this town dates from that mid to late 19th century period before it became a city, and Caguas has no dearth of fine Beaux Arts buildings. One of my favorite 19th Century confections is the aviary in the central plaza where the parrots Horace and Hortice hold court (when they choose to make their presence known). However wild parrots are often on the wing in Caguas, so don't despair if they are being shy, especially on weekends when the plaza and its surrounding streets are humming with activity.

On Friday evenings, the area in front of Bellas Artes is closed to traffic and the street lined with chairs and tables for the many patrons not already seated on the walls plaza walls. We've always been partial to CaReKi Bar & Tapas and La Vergüenza for our evening visits. Before heading to the festivities though, have dinner at either PizzArte or La Cueva Del Mar two of our favorites. If añejo and a nice cigar is more your speed-- you will love the vibe at Don Rey Cigar which is both understated and classically elegant.


Caguas is also vibrant during the day. Whether strolling the plaza or shopping in the open air Paseo José Gautier Benítez for anything from post cards to contemporary art (make sure you stop by Urbe-Apie a personal favorite of mine) the sights and sounds of this market town will always delight.


For something a bit more structured have a quick coffee at Café Palmer (another personal favorite of mine) and start hitting the many museums this town has to offer like the old city hall, the Pop Art museum, and many, many others.


From Casa Clara Vista to downtown Caguas it a drive of about 40 minutes one way, and its about the Same from Santurce in San Juan. Getting there by private car is the only real option. But legend has it that someday the Tren Urbano will make it as far as Caguas. Most likely this will happen right after Horace and Hortice start posing for pictures in their aviary.




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