Kayakers glide through one of Puerto Rico's bio bioluminescent bays after dusk.
Perhaps its because I was in the navy. After countless hours of cruising around the Caribbean I came to expect a tetra colored wake trailing the fantail of the ship as I voracious sucked down a cigarette before going back to my eve watch.
But for many others this natural phenomenon wrought by mangroves, choked water exchange, and an exceptionally high percentage of microscopic dinoflagellates, is more than "something pretty to look at;" its the whole purpose of their trip. Its for these folks that I am now writing this commentary.
First, let me start off by saying that experiencing bioluminescence for the first time (especially when its unexpected) is shocking and a little unnerving. Its no wonder that the Spanish thought the phenomenon was somehow demonic. Glowing blue/green water (like Saint Elmo's Fire and ball lightening) can certainly make you look twice and think of supernatural demonic manifestations.
Second, I will say that experiencing bioluminescence for the first time when its your goal is often anticlimactic and a bit underwhelming. It can also be less than pleasant.
There's an old expression in Spanish, "sangre nuevo" (literally meaning:"new blood") and it refers to a phenomenon often noted by residents here that if there are 10,000 mosquitoes in a given place at a given time, 9,999 of them will be flocked around someone who is not from the island. Now dashing off to see bioluminescence at dusk may seem like a dandy idea at first-- but considering bioluminescent bays are bioluminescent because they have poor water exchange and a profusion of mangroves (which are also the conditions most loved by mosquitoes) you get the idea. It's no accident that one of our most famous bioluminescent bays is "Mosquito Bay" in Viequez. No subtlety there folks. And because bioluminescence is caused by microscopic dinoflagellates who (like most microscopic things) don't take kindly to insecticides-- tour operators will warn you that you are going to go at it alone against the elements. Take my advice here and now, and get yourself a bottle of eucalyptus tincture at AllWays 99, and bath in it before you go aboard your kayak.
Now I know most of you are thinking: "Robert is telling me not to go." Robert is doing nothing of the sort. There are five notable bioluminescent bays in the world, and three of them are in Puerto Rico; by all means go. Just know what you are getting yourself into. Plan your trip around a warm, dry season, and during a new moon. Despite what all the pretty tourist pages might infer, dinoflagellates are not chemical light sticks that snap on command. Even in the best conditions bioluminescence is faint and subtle, no matter how neon-like the glow. That said-- the darker it is, the better the viewing. Another misleading thing to consider is swimming. It galls me when I see pictures of people swimming in bioluminescent bays because swimming in bioluminescent bays is not permitted. Not only because it does harm to the dinoflagellates, but because brackish, poor water exchange bays are not particularly wholesome for swimming. Those little dinoflagellates have to eat something and that something is a cruise ship worthy buffet of bacteria. It is never recommended to swim with a cruise ship worthy buffet of bacteria, which is why we humans like to dose our swimming pools with salt or chlorine.
All of our bioluminescent bays are a reasonable add-on trip from Casa Clara Vista and we can certainly make recommendations for accommodations and tour operators when you are ready to go, and we will look forward to hearing your take on the experience when you get back. And don't worry-- we always keep a bottle of eucalyptus tincture in the guest bathroom-- just in case.
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